Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Yu gardens, Old Town, pearls, June 25th

Okay so, Shanghai is a HUGE city with a comfortable feel. We can walk just a few blocks from our hotel (Park Hotel) which reminds us of the Arlington a bit because it's old and renovated but still has that old feel. The beds are like everywhere in China, thin mattressed and minimally blanketed which is fine. Actually, Jo and I thought the bed here may have been a bit softer. Oh well, our sleep has not been affected so, we may have trouble when we return home. Just a look out our window proves we are indeed in a huge city with buildings and skyscrapers as far as we can see. We can watch below where people have hung out their laundry to dry (in the humidity that's an oxymoron). Just blocks away is the pedestrian walk where the road traffic is forbidden and only foot traffic is allowed. At night this area is what makes Shanghai famous because it is all aglow with neon lights, musicians playing impromptu concerts, expensive namebrand stores open only until 10pm but party places alive with alluring music, drinks, and entertainment. I did not partake in that nightlife but others did. I did however take off with Jo in the back alleys in search of a long-sleeved shirt or jacket of some sort to wear on the return flight tomorrow, I froze on the plane coming. That was fun...going in the storefront is only the 'front" but be beakoned beyond the door at the back of the 'front' and you are now in a magical world of knock-off purses, shirts, luggage, ties, shoes, belts, etc. WOW! So I found an inexpensive red Prada zip-up for 60 yuan ($13.) originally $100. Ha! People everywhere on those back alleys behind the 'fancy street' playing cards, chess, eating, drinking, visiting, wheeling-dealing. The shops close early, 10pm to give room for the night life to lure residents and tourists. They all pull down their garage-type doors until the next morning's dealing.
Wednesday, last day, was busy with 3 destinations in the morning, another glorious lunch, and a 2 hour group meeting in the afternoon after which...more shopping and of course, eating. Gotta get that last deal and meal!
Destination #1 was a favorite of mine: the Yu Gardens, created by the Pan family. The Ming dynasty gardens were created for his in-laws as a gift (wish I were related!). This being private gardens the white walls proudly displays its undulating dragon with only four claws instead of the imperial gardens five to respect the emperor. Private gardens 3,000 years ago typically smaller than imperial ones hold much history, relics, chambers and of course beautiful, simple design. Chinese classic gardens were more backyard/residential gardens. About 5 miles outside Shanghai is Suzhou, home of the classic chinese gardens, about 50 in number. The Yu gardens were like a maze of 6 different areas with traditional trees, water, fish, rock formations (the Rockery) that are reputedly the largest and demonstrate the caves and gorges of southern China. Being a rock hound, I was so tempted to bring a sample but...they held me back!! Once you leave this pristine area you are jolted back to reality by the collossally busy bazaar that awaits outside the gardens. These are old-looking buildings that lure tourists to buy, buy, buy!! Most items are similar to what we've seen all along but several of us did stop to purchase prayer flags, postcards, etc. I actually stayed back in the gardens for some quiet time and to stop in the shop in the gardens where I found several beautiful and unique yak bone boxes, handcarved purportedly by the Miao people (one of the 56 minority groups in China).
We boarded the bus and toured the Old City area which includes the Bund along the Huanpu River area, French concession area which once housed white Russians and Chinese but now is a collection of fancy boutiques, restaurants , bars once the center of the opium trade Green Gang with its own police, utilities, governing. Bund means "waterfront" and when I get my photos organized you will see me standing with the river and Pudong behind me. The dense skyscrapers were all farmlands only 18 years ago. About 14,000 couples choose (and pay dearly) to have their weddings along the water each year. Weddings are still traditional with men and women living separately until marriage. What's an appropriate gift? Usually a red envelope containing a minimum of 500 yuan ($70.) and a BIG party to celebrate! This is interesting, the boy's parents ae responsible for arranging for the new couple's apartment...
Okay...on to the Pearl Factory/showroom, another shopping experience. But first, a little background on pearls. The lady had one of our 2 guys select an oyster fom the water bucket for her to slice open. We first all had to guess how many pearls may be nestled inside...whatya think?? Well, most of us were surprised to count 22 small pearls, we each got one to take home. We learned how tell if pearls are real or fake, rub 2 together to hear a slight rough sound. If they is no roughness just smooth and slippery, they're fake...voila! They assured us those in the store were ALL real and why? Because it's a government owned and operated store and we all know, the government never lies! Ha, just kidding because actually these stores were always our best assurance. Yes, I did buy some pearls for the younguns in my family and then some. It was somewhat overwhelming actually! Jay, in our group, found an anniversay gift for his wife he will hold on to for 2 years, what a guy! Virginia purchased the only brown pearl there and it is quite pretty!
So, after our meeting...I was the guide by leading 3 book lovers in our group to the 7-story Book City I visited yesterday. We scattered and agreed to meet to return to the hotel in 90 minutes. On the walk back we passed the 5star Howard Johnson's, the Olympic merchandise store, a Pizza Hut, McDonald's, and Burger King. I must admit I never touched one morsel of American food in China but many of my travel mates did indeed CHEAT! I don't eat that stuff in the U.S. so I wasn't even tempted.
Farewell dinner time was 6:30 sharp at our bus to e transported to another fabulous dinner spot for the "creme de la creme" dinner with speeches by our fearless (?) leaders and group sing-fest lead by our songwriters, Krystal and Yvonne. There were 3 songs all to the tunes of Gilligans Island, Brady Bunch, and American Pie. Of course the songs contained adult sarcasm gathered from the oopsies of our trip and would only be laughable to us. I can certainly speak for my self bby saying I was feeling very reluctant to depart China, I had grown to love the people, the food more than before, beer at lunch, the beauty of the country, the culture and traditions, etc. China reminded me of my trip in 1977 to England with my Mom. Every city has a Buddhist temple on almost every corner as England has it's churches. But, I must admit I enjoyed seeing every temple we visited, each had a unique story and buddhas.

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