china blog too, too (June 21, 2008)

Okay...well, it's our last night in the beautiful, peaceful, exciting, safe and delightful city of Lijiang. We are all sad to leave here. Our hotel is in the center of the old/new town area where all the action, food, shops, etc. are. The people here are mainly of the Naxi (pronounced Nashi) and Bangpo minorities and are quite remarkable people. Down through history they have been renowned for their desire for everyone to be at peace which is why their temple and frescoes dating back 500-600 years show respectful markings of all three of China's religions so as not to offend anyone. We have been treated to the most exciting scenery as Lijuang sits at the foot of the famous snow mountain of 16,000 feet. Yes, it is gorgeous, breathtaking, awe inspiring! We have visited a monastery atop a mountain, lighted incense and watched young men being tutored. Each family selects one male child to become a monk, it's an honor. They begin their training at 5 years old, amazing, huh? We have visited a buddhist temple atop a mountain and a Daoist temple with the walls of the Mu Mansion (the museum home of the Mu family leaders of Lijuang who executed during the cultural revolution. What a sad state of events as this family was so very kind and influential for the Naxi and Bang po people. There is at least one surviving member,elderly, in Lijuang while the others were long ago sent to re-education camps. So, they only have the Mansion and extensive relics left and are maintained by the people and tourists. Last night we attended a fabulous musical production that illustrated the history of the Naxi people (Bangpo) through song, ancient instruments, and dance. The Bangpo priest (an actual priest of 81 years of age) is the star and trains all of the other members. He's amazing and the show was truly spellbinding, we could have watched and listened for hours more. Then, we met him afterwards and were so excited. We visited the Naxi heritage museum and met the highest Bangpo priest who also wrote special pictograph documents for anyone who wished to give loved ones a message. I did a couple and can't wait to show them off. I have shopped until I am about to drop. We eat 3 times a day and walk so much I don't think I've gained anything but an increased appreciation for Chinese food, people, and landscape. Yesterday, we were finished with our tourist stuff by 1pm so, I spent the rest of the day by myself walking EVERYWHERE. I walked and looked and photographed and met people and shopped for 7 hours. I loved it! I must have over 4000 photos so far. NO, I won't make you see them all. I have taken easily 200+ photos of children and families. The children here are so precious, it's hard not to take pictures of them. And, I love their pants that are slit around the crotch so they can just squat and pee or poop whereever. It's funny. The streets throughout China are immaculate, people are hired to clean the streets daiy, swwep and discard trash. There are fresh food and veggie vendors everywhere. Last night Jo and I ate at a restaurant where the woman has befriended us. She selected our mewal that was exquisite! We had scrabled egg pancake with peacock blossoms and a fresh mushroom and vegetable dish that had mushrooms freshly picked on the mountain that morning, and soup ( that is with every meal), 2 large beers all for a mere 120 yuan which less than $20 for the 2 of us. The flowers and trees here are lush and immaculately cared for. The museums are terrific and so well cared for. Can you imagine viewing frescoes that are over 800 years old and the colors are still vibrant and so very meaningful?! The crafts here are phenomenal and the prices are ridiculously low. I have to admit that I have a suitcase full of gifts and artifacts and had to purchase an extra bag to carry stuff home in. We are leaving at 7am tomorrow morning (Sunday) by air to Kunming and then to Shanghai where we'll grab a bus for 3 hours to Hangzhou overnight where we'll visit a silk factory and a tea plantation. Then, to Shanghai until we depart on the 26th for home. Well, I must go finish packing and shower so that I can just float in a fog in the 6:15 hour to the bus to the airport. Love to all as always!!!! Liz